Showing posts with label Austin Mini. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Austin Mini. Show all posts

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Austin Mini - Clutch Part 2

Non-Verto woes

After studying the Haynes manual carefully, I enlisted the help of Gilbert, an ace Japanese car mechanic, for this operation. He already assisted me in the past - replacement of the steering rack and ball joints.


Front sub frame supported by jack stands + a trolley jack under the transmission, the Mini is prepared for a full clutch overhaul.

Filthy flywheel cover - mixture
of clutch lining dust + motor oil

Flywheel + clutch disc drenched in oil

the culprit

New diaphragm,
release bearing, clutch disc + oil seal

this oil seal
prevents motor oil from the crankcase
from contaminating the clutch/flywheel 

new clutch disc installed

Flywheel + new diaphragm
With the flywheel cover and starter re installed it was time for a test drive. No more clutch slip and significant improvement in drive ability, but...


...there is significant wear on the ball (red*) at the end of the clutch release lever and socket (red*) of the release bearing plunger which prevent proper adjustment of the throw out nuts (2). I had to keep the 1/4" thick bolt between the slave piston and clutch arm rod (blue**) to get clutch action. To get it back to factory specs, I need a new clutch arm lever + release bearing plunger.

Just like music performance, I always try to be a perfectionist so this has to be sorted out properly ;)


Austin Mini - Clutch Part 1

Non-Verto clutch woes

Blown slave cylinder

Top - old slave
Bottom - new slave

New slave ready for assembly
using liberal amount of DOT 4 fluid
for wheel cylinder/cap lubrication

Copper washer (from the flexible hose)
did not come with the new slave (or hose)
so I cleaned the old washer

New slave cylinder + new flexible hose
ready for installation

Since the fluid spurted out by the slave was jet black I went ahead and dismantled the master cylinder.

So much crud came out of the master cylinder
fortunately the inner wall was intact.

Master cylinder repair kit

Master cylinder components cleaned
and new wheel caps installed lubricated
by fresh DOT 4 fluid


Master cylinder ready for installation

Fresh DOT 4 fluid was transfused into the hydraulic system and bled until no air was coming coming out of the slave bleeding valve. But there were a few snags, the clutch throw out stop could not be adjusted as per Haynes and I had to insert a 1/4" bolt at the end of the clutch arm push rod to get clutch action. Although clutch pedal feel and action significantly improved, after driving around my neighborhood I still experienced intermittent clutch slide on steep hill climbs...more problems lurking ahead :(

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Smiths Tachometer


With the prices of Smiths Classic Gauges going through the roof, I gambled at eBay and won this for about $20/shipped. It is an RVI* 1433/01 negative ground probably pulled out of a junked mid-60s MGB, MG Midget or Austin Healey Sprite.

*The RVI Series only works with conventional contact point ignition systems. For later models (or converted) with electronic ignition, use an RVC.


NOTE: the black dotted lines between the distributor and coil denotes a wire that should be removed. Essentially the tachometer replaces the wire and, is in series between the distributor and coil as shown in the diagram.


The gamble paid off!



Monday, November 14, 2011

10" Rosepetal alloys

Preparation...

Stock rear drum and the later (Cooper) version with 
built-in 1" spacer

removed the two screws securing the drum, slackened the brake adjuster screw and hub cap removed 

longer studs are needed

hammered the longer studs on the old drum to insure alignment

repacked the wheel bearing

new brake drum ready for fitting

new drum fitted, brake adjuster adjusted for one complete turn of the wheel...
...just need to fit the two longer screws to secure the drum
Done

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

SU HS4

There have been quite a few procedures done to my '82 Mini which I forgot to document on digital camera. Let's back track a bit...

Safety first!

 Brake lines were bled and refilled with fresh fluid. Brake shoes were thick, master and wheel cylinders were working fine so I just cleaned all the drums, adjusted  the shoes (one full wheel turn) and made sure no air got stuck in the hydraulic line.

Pedal pressure was good for a non-servo brake system and the car maintained a straight line on hard braking.


 My dad's initial enthusiasm to test drive the car was curbed upon hearing rattles. All the swivel joints were on their last shims and duly replaced following this preparation procedure from Mini Addicts. The shot steering rack was another major rattle contributor. Haynes manual at hand, this site and the assistance of a mechanic, Gilbert, who never handled a Mini in his life; we managed to get a brand new steering rack in place in less than four hours in my drive way.

The car is already fitted with Hi-Lo adjustable suspension, coil springs + Koni Classic shock absorbers which lowered the ride height below practical road use in Manila. Standard length KYBs replaced the Konis and Hi-Los adjusted to original ride height.

Brakes, steering and suspension sorted, engine is next....

Radiator removed, cleaned, cooling system drained until there were no signs of rust colored liquid circulating from the water jackets.

I thought the engine was always running too rich and I could not adjust the carburettor for consistent mixture.


 To my dismay the throttle body had a crack, probably caused by an ill-fitting/home made cardboard gasket and over tightening the two intake manifold mounting bolts.


Epoxy steel + DIY gaskets from true gasket material tied me over for a few months....


...meanwhile I scouted eBay and snagged this older SU HS4 for $30. It probably came from a junked Austin America (Austin/Morris/MG 1100/1300). I also ordered an SU repair kit, needle, float, gaskets and etc.


I stripped/cleaned the eBay acquired HS4 and combined the best parts available from both units.

Overhauled SU HS4 to the left ready for installation

I reverted to a non-Waxstat type jet upon confirming with Seven Enterprises that it offers slightly more efficient performance. Since my 998cc engine came with an LCB exhaust, I fitted a new AAU needle. Easily done since it has the self-centering/spring loaded type piston.

The engine started on the first crank but it started to rain ;(
Fine tuning of mixture and other minor adjustments saved for another day....

Icing on the cake - K&N filter for the stock air-box ;)

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Mini MK IV Wiper Stalk

While working on other issues in the steering column, I inadvertently disassembled the wiper stalk...
...as far as I know this is the proper way to reassemble and it works!

Key points:
brass cylinder at end of stalk = switch contact
brass spring installed in X fashion = single wipe action

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Friday, February 18, 2011

Monday, February 7, 2011

Mini 1000

Work in progress....
Canon P + Serenar 35/2.8
APX100/Diafine
No hub caps, out on a test drive after steering rack and swivel joints were replaced

Bessa R + W-Komura 36/1.8
Fuji Acros 100/Diafine
Bessa R + Canon Serenar 50/1.8
APX100/Diafine
My objective is to remain faithful to the original design and keep it as classic as possible!  
Bessa R + uncoated Summar 50/2
APX100/Diafine 
...one of my favorite lens test subjects ;)