Fuji X-E1 R.I.P. (Oct. 2013 - Aug. 2019)

After 6 years of great service, my beloved Fuji X-E1 died during our NYC trip. 😞

I miss its real camera ergonomics. Ideally, I'd like to have Fujifilm RF aesthetics, ergonomics + a full frame sensor. Perhaps a digital Leica M? 🤔

But my reality is a compromise. 😜

I'm just beginning to appreciate the benefits of a full frame sensor from this Sony device. 😊

Summer 2019 Amp Projects and 6X6 Folding Rangefinder Cameras

Radiotron SE2A3 with Noguchi PMF-15WS

Shot with an Ansco Super Speedex loaded with
Foma 100 and developed in Kodak HC110 dilution B

Ansco Super Speedex
more pics

JE Labs Simple 46 with Noguchi FM-6WS

Shot with a Super Fujica 6 loaded with
Foma 100 and developed in Kodak HC110 dilution B 

Super Fujica 6
more pics

Good light and happy listening!

M42 camera bodies and lenses

A quartet of M42 SLRs

Between 2016-2017 I acquainted myself with these mechanical M42 SLR cameras and lenses. These four camera bodies left a lasting impression on me for personal, historical and sheer shooting pleasure along with the lenses I used them with. Aside from shooting film, I also adapted the lenses to my trusty Fuji X-E1.

Yashica Penta J + Yashinon 5cm  f2

I have a special affinity for the Yashica Penta J since my dad taught me how to take pictures using this camera. This was the first M42 mount body produced by Yashica. It doesn't have a light meter and the shutter speeds are limited from 1/2-1/500 + B but the viewfinder is fairly bright (at par with the Pentax Spotmatic) assisted by a split image focusing screen. The standard Yashinon 5cm f2 lens is rather special and has caught the attention of aficionados which has driven its value up recently.

Pentax Spotmatic SP + Super Takumar 50mm f1.4

This is the camera most closely associated with the M42 mount. It gets more credit for popularizing the M42 screw mount than the much earlier Zeiss-developed Contax S later known as the Pentacon SLR, shown below. It is similar in size to the Yashica above with a similar spec'ed viewfinder but equipped with more comprehensive shutter speeds from 1s-1/1000 + B. The built-in light meter is broken on this flea market find. I bought this camera primarily because of the sought after Super Takumar 50mm f1.4. 

Pentacon ZI + Isco-Gottingen Westagon 50mm f2
Pentacon F + CZJ Tessar 50mm f3.5

These two immediate descendants of the Contax S were manufactured in the former East Germany by Pentacon in the 1950s. They have a rather interesting shutter speed selector arrangement. There's a switch in the back which selects between slow (B-1/20) and fast (1/50-1/1000) shutter speeds. The shutter speed indicator wheel located behind a plastic window spins when the shutter is released. A very neat feature! Handling this camera is reminiscent of Leica screw mount bodies including the knob wind film advance. However, the compact and light body is ultimately let down by a rudimentary ground glass focusing viewfinder (tip: best used on a sunny day) and there's no instant mirror return. It was a time capsule shooting experience with these two cameras.

More info on Contax/Pentacon 35mm SLRs.

Fujica ST801 + Zeiss Jena Tessar 50mm f2.8

A very sophisticated mechanical M42 camera, the Fujica ST801 was very much ahead of its time. It sports a compact body, bright viewfinder fitted with a split image prism, 1s-1/2000 (!) shutter speeds + B with a built-in light meter which uses a 6V battery that is still readily available. This is my pick of the lot!

Lesser Fujica siblings

The Fujica ST701 has a top speed of 1/1000 and the light meter requires the obsolete Mercury cell. While the entry level ST605's light meter works with modern batteries, the top shutter speed is only 1/750. Nevertheless, these two cameras share the same compact body and bright viewfinder with its top of the line brother - ST801.

M42 lenses

Fujinon 28mm f3.5

Quantaray 28mm f2.8

Vivitar 28mm f2.8
+
Fujinon 55mm f1.8

Soligor 35mm f2.8

Mir 1B
+

Helios 44M-4

Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f1.8

Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f2

Fujinon EBC 55mm f1.8

Mamiya Sekor 50mm f2

Pentacon 50mm f1.8

Yashinon 50mm f1.7

Good Light!

Cinestill Cs-41 Color Film Developing Kit

Intrigued by an e-newsletter from Freestyle Photographic Supplies, I ordered this color film processing kit, which promised to be just as straightforward as developing B&W film.

Mixing the Chemicals

Developer = 20 oz of distilled water heated to 120° F + Parts A, B & C to make 1 quart

Blix (Bleach/Fixer) = 18 oz of distilled water heated to 125° F + Parts A, B & C to make 1 quart

Preparation

As suggested by the Cs41 website, I got a $25 foot spa from Walmart as a tempering bath for the chemicals and the developing tank.

Temperature is most critical with the developer. Since the foot spa is just a tempering bath and does not heat up water, I filled it up with hot water from the tap, which was between 105-110°F.

Meanwhile, I filled up a pot with hot water from the tap and heated up the developer in this water bath on the stove to my chosen 102° F developing temperature.

Pre-wash

 I did a pre-wash to stabilize developing tank temperature at 102°F.

Developing

The developer is ready.

I dumped the pre-wash and poured the developer into the tank. I developed for 3.5 minutes doing 4 inversions every 30 seconds. Tank is submerged in the bath in between inversions.

Developer is poured back into the container. I turned off the foot spa since the Blix stage is not as temperature sensitive.

Blixing

Blix can be used anywhere between 75°F-102°F,  so 90.9°F is perfect.

I filled up the developing tank with Blix and did 4 inversions every 30 seconds for the next 8 minutes. After 8 minutes, the temperature inside the developing tank would be just about equivalent to room temperature tap water, which will be used for the wash/rinse cycle.

Blix is poured back into the container.

Wash and Rinse 

I filled up the tank with room temperature tap water, did 5-10 inversions and then dumped the water. Repeated this at least 7 times.

Photo-flo

Filled up the tank with fresh tap water (or distilled) and added two drops of photo-flo or the stabilizer from the kit. Left it standing for at least a minute.

Hang to dry

I let the film dry for at least an hour.

Developing at other temperatures

As shown in the above chart, processing can also be done anywhere from 72°-102° F, but developing time can take as long as 50 minutes at colder temperatures.

The Cinestill Cs41 color film developing kit is just as fool-proof as B&W film processing. The only difference is that they are at both ends of the temperature spectrum. Since I've relegated taking color pictures to my trusty Fuji X-E1, I've seriously been considering an upgrade to a full frame digital body. However, this recent experience processing color film has taken the upgrade itch away...😊

Sample pics

Rollei 35 + Kodak Gold 200

Rollei 35 + Kodak Gold 200 

Rollei 35 + Kodak Gold 200

Rollei 35 + Kodak Gold 200

Rollei 35 + Kodak Gold 200

Nikon FG20 + Nikkor E series 50mm f1.8
Expired Fuji Color 100 

Leica M6 + Summicron 35mm f2
Kodak Portra 160

Darwin D. Martin House
by Frank Lloyd Wright
Buffalo, NY

more pics

Lens Filter Ring Vise

I recently fixed two lenses from my collection which had dented filter rings using this $36 tool from Micro-Tools.

The tool didn't come with instructions but using it is pretty straightforward. As a precaution, I covered the front element with cardboard. First, I positioned the moving jaw of the tool on the dent and aligned the threads from the jaws of the tool to mate with the threads of the filter ring. Then I gently spread out the jaws of the tool to press out the dent. I cannot over emphasize going slowly but surely!

Dent was between 10 and 11 o'clock
impossible to fit a hood or filter

After the procedure, a 46mm
screw-in lens hood fits with
minimal fuss

Dent was between 3 and 4 o'clock

Not perfect but better than it was

The tool has paid for itself ;)