Friday, January 24, 2020

Syntec S220 Tonearm - bearing adjustment

AKA Piezo PU-402 or Sparta ST220

I've handled a few of these through the years and the horizontal bearings usually have too much slack. I've yet to encounter a sample that had vertical bearing issues though.

Follow the tips below on how to reduce horizontal bearing slack.



This is a highly underrated tonearm that works great with medium to lower compliance cartridges!


Happy Listening!



Thursday, January 9, 2020

TBT '96-'97: JE Labs Project Pics



I'll start the new decade with scanned negatives of my DIY Audio projects from the mid to late 90s. Most of these pictures were taken either with my Pentax K1000 or Leica M3 + Rigid 50mm Summicron, loaded with either Agfa Vista or Kodak Plus X, processed by a local lab. I didn't know how to develop film yet back then. 😉 

ca. '96

My last Dyna PAS hack



This Dyna PAS 2 chassis sports an RCA phono circuit with Ni-Cad batteries for cathode bias. Check out those wonderful (then) anti-high-end paper in oil caps from Jensen, Facon and Icar. Too bad they get leaky after a couple of years.


Yup, that's an octal socket in the line stage for the mighty 6SN7!


Under the hood of the outboard power supply is a choke for the B+ for better filtration. Connection to the main preamp is via an octal plug/socket.


By this time I was already a firm believer in tube rectification. I retained the original PAS transformer for B+ supply duty only and relegated DC filament duty to another power transformer.


JE Labs Stereo "Classic" SE300B with Audio Note UK 2.5K OPTs



A Thorens TD124 + a (then) newly-acquired ($60!) Grace G540L tonearm + Grado 8MZ on my very first laminated plywood plinth project. All these components are still in service.


The original Simple 45


ca. '97


JE Labs Stereo SE2A3 with Tango U808 OPTs


JE Labs Classic SE300B mono-block with Audio Note UK 3K OPT


I briefly owned a pair of AES/Soliloquy 5.2 TQWT speakers. Coming from Spendor LS3/5As, these sounded lean and weren't more efficient either - probably in the high 80s rather than the claimed low 90s.😏


Fortunately, I snagged a pair of Altec 755Cs at a hamfest and quickly whipped out a pair of small open baffles. I was hooked!


The Altec 755Cs in open baffles based on dimensions published by Stereo Sound "Tube Kingdom" Issue No. 3/1996. And yes, I added a Garrard 301 to my system!


I got my Garrard 301 in the early summer of '97 along with the Altec 755Cs. 


This was the block diagram of my system before the end of the millennium as a featured "Home-brewer" in Sound Practices.  I can't believe 20 years went by so quickly!





Wednesday, December 18, 2019

Preview for 2020


 I've become so busy the last few months and wasn't able to upload as much as I intended to. So here's what's in the pipeline for the coming year.

My one and only...

The JP757A - a John Piro (re)creation, amongst others...

Revisit MM/MI phono cartridges

American Classics 

Japanese Idler Drive(s)

'68 G401

DIY tube DAC


Tonearms are like violin bows

my camera adventures



Happy Holidays and a Great New Year to Everyone!











Saturday, November 16, 2019

JE Labs Audio Playground AKA System No. 2

 My main system has remained pretty constant for over 20 years, except for a couple of milestones. However, the same can't be said about my audio playground which sits beside my home office, in which the only thing constant is change. 😉


 Testing a few flea market/thrift store finds: a Kenwood KT880D tuner, a Sony DVP NS900V, a Magnavox CD2000, comparing a pair of Electro-Voice Sonocaster portable speakers vs. Lafayette SK98s, revisiting a Rek O Kut L34 + S160 tonearm + Shure M3D 
The power amp is my JEL Simple 45 with Tamura F475s driven by the JEL Loctal Preamp.


Trying a pair of Sansui T-104 horn tweeters on top of Altec 755Cs in Altec 618 cabinets, Denon DP1250 + Rega R200 tonearm + Audio-Technica AT3600L, comparing the Scott LT110B vs. the Kenwood KT880D vs. the Yamaha T-2


Since I blogged about the Altec 755A in Dr. Bae/Silbatone cabinets, this system has remained pretty consistent with a Gates CB77 + Fidelity Research FR54 + DL103 + Shure MC transformers or a moving permalloy Nagaoka MP10 serving LPs + the JEL Loctal Preamp  and JEL Simple 46 or Dyna ST35 doing preamp/amp duties.

This system also served as a cross reference for the  CD/DAC mods, Multi-bit DACs, Thrift Store CD players, Darling Amp, JEL StyleFM Tuner reviews, amongst others that I blogged about this past year.


At the end of summer, the boss decided that it was time to mitigate the flooding problem during heavy rain and snow in the lower level of our home. 


Since this entailed removing the drywall in the hifi man cave, everything had to be stored or relocated and dust-proofed. 


It's been over a month since the retaining wall was sealed with waterproof coating. We've had a couple of strong rains and it's been dry so far. But we're in no hurry to replace the drywall. We want to make sure that it'll stay dry through the worst precipitation Mother Nature sends our way.

Meanwhile, even if I have a nice mono hi-fi in the living room, I miss stereophonic sound.


The boss was kind enough to allow the re-commissioning of the near-field system. To make unpacking simpler, I minimized the use of tube electronics. 

I'm currently DJ'ing between a Denon DP1250 + DA50 and a Sony TTS2500 + Grace G565 with various MM and MC cartridges. Line level sources include a Raspberry Pi 3B+/Volumio > Musical Fidelity V-Link USB to S/PDIF* > NOS'd Arcam Delta Black Box DAC and an NAD 4300 AM/FM tuner.

*I acquired this for less than half the cost of an Allo DigiOne and it sounds just as good!


A Realistic 32-1100A Stereo Mixer I found at a flea market for 10 bucks is doing preamp duty. It has provisions for three line level inputs or 2 x magnetic phono + 1 line level. I thought the magnetic phono inputs were pretty decent on this discrete transistorized unit (no op-amps) until I got another discrete solid-state Radio Shack product, the 42-2109 phono preamp. This unit produced a warmer, more vivid midrange with even better extension in the frequency extremes. 


To warm things up further, I inserted a pair of UTC A20 line level transformers between the Rat Shack Stereo Mixer and the Nobsound NS-02g

Belden 9497

The Belden 9497 speaker cables softened the slight edginess betraying the solid-state DNA of the JLH 1969 Class A amp clone and made the Altec 755Cs in Altec 618 cabinets sound snappy!


Judicious mixing and matching of yesteryears' solid-state audio components employing discrete circuitry with the line transformers and a cable tweak inserted in between, mimicked the musical experience I typically enjoy only from an all vacuum tube set up. It's akin to the Fuji Acros film simulation setting in my Fuji X-E3 camera. But there's still no substitute for the real thing. 😉













Friday, October 25, 2019

November Hi-Fi Show 2019


It's that time of the year again! 

more info

If you're in Manila, please join my friends on November 23-24! 




Friday, October 11, 2019

Magnavox CDB465 Mods > TDA1541 DAC Kit > Arcam Delta Black Box

Magnavox CDB465


The Magnavox CDB465 was the no-frills entry level model marketed ca. 1987. Its more upmarket contemporaries were the CDB460, CDB560 and CDB650. Since it shares the same DAC and audio section as its more expensive siblings, they are sonically on equal footing.


I wanted all my modifications to be reversible so I installed IC sockets for the audio op-amps and SAA7220 digital OverSampling filter. The original electrolytic output caps were replaced with 4.7uf WIMA polyester caps.

Since there were no "bulging" electrolytic power supply capacitors and the AC line current draw monitored on my Variac was very normal, I didn't deem it necessary to recap the entire unit.

Typical dual op-amps found in
80s vintage Philips/Magnavox CD players:
NE5532N and LM833N

+
the FET-input OPA2604AP

This modification follows the footsteps of Walt Jung's article on page 74 of the June 1987 issue of Audio. Walt discussed the importance of op-amps with fast slew rate and higher quality output capacitors for better audio performance. Although the Burr-Brown OPA2604APs I chose date from the late 90s, they are still sonically respected due to their FET-inputs, which supposedly give them a "tubey" quality.

There's a plethora of cheap Burr-Brown op-amps from Chinese sellers, but I didn't want to risk getting fakes. So I searched hard and found some for less than $5 each from a seller in Texas.

The polyester caps + OPA2604AP op-amps cleaned up the sound. I heard less digital screech at the top end and an overall improvement in definition across the audio band.


I don't consider cutting traces in the PC board and using jumper wires à la Lampizator as reversible. So I ordered this plug 'n play NVKaudio NOS/re-clock module for $30/shipped from Bulgaria. I was quite taken aback by the improvement in sound when I installed this NonOverSampling module in place of the SAA7220 digital OS filter. The high frequencies opened up, the midrange became more luminous, detail and definition improved without additional harshness and it had better dynamic contrasts. It was an experience reminiscent of the first time I fired up my DIY no-negative feedback PP2A3 amp in the early 90s.

To objectify these two modifications, the op-amp/output cap upgrade gave at least a 10% improvement, while the shift to NOS = 40%! If this NOS modification was known in the 80s, I probably would've been more amenable to CD technology then. Oh well, as they say, better late than never. 😊

My problem now is, I want a stand-alone TDA1541-based DAC to connect to my Pi 3B+/Allo DigiOne or any digital transport. Can it be done on a modest budget? 


TDA1541 Chinese DAC Kit


This fully assembled DAC board sans TDA1541 chip cost $50 shipped from China. For another $30 I got an R-core power transformer with dual 15V + dual 9V secondary + 120/240V primary windings. Within less than an hour, I had a TDA1541 DAC on a breadboard ready for listening.

 It has 3 digital inputs including a PCM2704-based USB interface + optical or coaxial feeding a CS8412 receiver. The audio section came with single NE5534N op-amps (2 per channel) and polyester WIMA caps in the output section. Adjacent to the empty TDA1541 socket is a socketed SAA7220P/C digital oversampling filter. With seven heat-sinked regulators and a battery of filter capacitors, I surmise that every section of this DAC is independently filtered and regulated.



The topology reminded me of the innards of D/A sections of upmarket CD players and DACs from the TDA1541 era. For example, the TDA1541 socket is surrounded by film-type capacitors, which is a recommended upgrade to the SMDs found in mainstream mid-80s Philips/Magnavox CD players.

Using a TDA1541 chip I scavenged from a dead CDB2041, I fed this DAC with the output stream of the modified CDB465 above with its SAA7220 digital filter re-installed*. Honestly, I could not conclusively discern a difference between the output of this DAC and the modified audio section of the CDB465. This can only mean that this DAC must be doing something better...

*NOTE: removing the SAA7220 digital filter disables the digital coaxial output of any Philips/Magnavox CD player from the TDA1541/1543 era

The stock Adcom GDA600 offers better detail resolution and definition + a smidgen better extension in the frequency extremes compared to this TDA1541 DAC. But there is something organic about how the TDA1541 DAC presents music especially in the midrange, which makes it musically more satisfying.

Left = NVKaudio NOS module 
Center = SAA7220P/C
Right = JE's DIY NOS module

After a couple of days, I upped the stakes and upgraded the NE5534Ns op-amps to FET-input OPA604s. Then I pulled out the SAA7220P/C digital filter and inserted a simpler NOS module I made from a 24-pin socket and three jumper wires (above, right) based on a tip from this DIYer's website. Thanks, man!

Please note that my 24-pin socket/3-jumper wire NOS concoction doesn't work with CD players, only with outboard DACs. The NVKaudio NOS module works with both CD player and outboard DAC. The good news is, in a DAC application, I don't hear a sonic advantage using the NVKaudio NOS module over my cheap NOS concoction.


With the OPA604s installed and the SAA7220P/C chip replaced by my DIY NOS module, the TDA1541 Kit (fed by the digital stream of either a Magnavox CDB650 or a Sony CDP 505esD) overtook the modified CDB465 with the NVKaudio NOS module in terms of midrange warmth and definition across the audio band. The edge in detail retrieval that the Adcom GDA600 had was narrowed, while the NOS TDA1541 DAC with op-amp upgrade pulled ahead in terms of midrange warmth and dynamics.

I didn't consider a further upgrade to Burson or Sparkos discrete op-amps because they are expensive and by nature, these devices rely on negative feedback (NFB) to achieve linearity. IME as a vacuum tube DIYer, NFB satisfies the scope and meters but not my ears. 😜

Arcam Delta Black Box



Arcam and Musical Fidelity both claim to have produced the first outboard D/A processor. Here are links to Stereophile's review from the late 80s of the Arcam Delta Black Box and Musical Fidelity Digilog

I lucked out on a Delta Black Box which needed some work. Fortunately, a service manual is available online. After replacing a couple of fried resistors, music!

Musical Fidelity Digilog
Courtesy of Google

I also wanted to try a Digilog, but in hindsight, it was a good thing I couldn't afford those that came up for sale. Based on the picture above, it was a textbook, albeit deluxe, implementation of the TDA1541 DAC chip. Except for the digital input receiver section, the D/A circuit topology is very similar to the CDB465 and Chinese kit above -  TDA1541 DAC output > op-amp ICs in the audio stage > coupling caps at the output to block DC offset.

I'm not sure if the TDA1541A S2 (dual crown) chip in the picture above was originally supplied with this unit, probably not. Stereophile's favorable review of the Digilog over the Arcam Delta Black Box is probably the reason why they command higher resale prices. 

Arcam Delta Black Box

In stark contrast, the Arcam Delta Black Box is actually the more sophisticated design. It used discrete components with Class A operating points, instead of audio op-amp ICs. The audio stage is a direct coupled design = no capacitors in the signal path. The op-amps visible are part of a DC servo circuit that controls DC offset at the output.


It did have a tendency to sound a bit hot on the top end. But I could hear its untapped potential, excellent bass definition and extension + a midrange that is still very TDA1541-like. Since there are no capacitors that I could "tune to taste" with paper in oils, I carefully unsoldered the SAA7220P/B digital OS filter and installed a 24-pin socket. 

Running the Delta Black Box in NOS mode got rid of all the nastiness in the top end. The high frequencies opened up with shimmer and airiness, the midrange became more focused and bass response and extension is the best I've heard from CDs so far. It was clearly better than my mod'ed CDB465 above with NVKaudio NOS module, op-amp upgraded and NOS TDA1541 Chinese DAC kit and stock Adcom GDA600. Although not quite as lucid in the midrange as the Audio GD R2R-11, the frequency extremes were much better.


Now that I've heard a few TDA1541 DAC topologies and have compared them to a PCM-63 based DAC + a discrete R2R design, I'm quite confident that my ideal DAC would use an NOS TDA1541 DAC chip coupled to a tube output stage.


PS: I can't hear the difference between the TDA1541 and TDA1541A. I have no experience with the specially selected S1 or S2 samples. Does anyone care to send me a sample (or two) to try? 😉