from page 37 of the 1960 Radio Shack Catalog |
The Realistic Mark 8 improved upon the similar looking "motor unit-stye" Mark 7 in Part 4 of this series by adding a 16 rpm speed and supplying a half pound heavier cast aluminum platter.
Realistic Mark 8 motor |
Externally, the motor fitted to the Mark 8 looks different. However, the internal construction is very similar to the NEAT P58H motor. Please click here for an illustrated tear down, cleaning and lubrication procedure.
I finally got my hands on a quart of Mobil DTE 25 oil, which is a bit slicker than the Blue 3-IN-ONE. So far, all my idler driven turntable motors lubricated with this stuff come up to speed quicker, including the TD124 and Garrard 301. Highly recommended!
This RPM measuring device is worth having if you're a DIY-inclined idler turntable user.
Garrard 301 grease bearing vs. the Mark 8 oil bearing |
Hence, the "nylon countersunk washer thrust pad mod" is also applicable.
NOTE: stepped pulley diameters From top to bottom = 16, 33, 45 and 78 rpm |
Even if the pilot light lens is removable, the neon bulb can't be replaced from the top. Unsolder the connections to the housing and unscrew it from the bottom of the chassis.
If your unit was pulled out of a console or wall installation by an unscrupulous flipper, here's the motor wiring diagram.
Mark VIIIa
from page 62 of the 1961 Radio Shack Catalog |
Terry Witt idler wheel |
I was resigned to keeping it for spares but fortunately, Terry Witt agreed to fabricate a new idler wheel.
A Fraternal Twin
CalRad TT1500 |
Realistic Mark 8 |
I really like the shape and colour of the motor unit. Very cool, IMO. I'm starting to think I shouldn't have passed on one of the Japanese idlers a while back.
ReplyDeleteI hope you get another opportunity to acquire a Japanese idler driven turntable. They're not quite Garrard 301/401 or Thorens TD124 level but are worthy alternatives to a stock Lenco or Rek O Kut. Good luck!
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