Cheap and EZ
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Neat P58H/Shield MO19 |
This experiment was inspired by the spring-mounted motor on my Neat P58H.
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Realistic MKVIII |
Even if the rubber grommets on the MKVIII are still supple and intact, I replaced them with 302 stainless steel compression (1/2" x 0.600") conical springs, Grainger part no. 1NDB4 and heard a significant reduction in noise.
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Left = Neat P58H original Right = 1NDB4 |
Heck if it works with the Japanese idlers, it should also work with the TD124. So I ordered smaller conical springs from zorotools on eBay for the TD124 and TD124II.
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1NCY2 = 5/16" H x 0.48" |
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1NCW4 = 1/2" H x 0.48" |
Magnetic vs. Non-magnetic Platter
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TD124 standard platter = heavy "magnetic" iron |
I used to believe there was negligible sonic difference between the heavy iron platter from the MKI vs. the MKII's non-magnetic platter.
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Lighter non-magnetic platter issued with the TD124II |
However, in the intervening years, I've come to realize that the heavy iron platter bestows gravitas to the TD124 design!
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TD124II + heavy iron platter |
When I found an older iron platter at a reasonable price, I grabbed it and installed it to my Mark II!

IMHO/IME, as long as one keeps the original aluminum outer subplatter + clutch mechanism intact, the magnetic platter + phono cartridge interface isn't a problem. Ortofon and Thorens were aware of this back in the day and their recommended procedure of setting the VTF as pictured above is still relevant now. I've been using the SPU, DL103 + other phono cartridges on the iron platter for over two decades with no issues.
Let's not go to the light (or no plinth) vs. heavy plinth.😄
I agree with your tips. What are your thoughts on using MC cartridges with the heavy iron platter?
ReplyDeleteI set the VTF on the stock platter arrangement (light alum platter over the heavy iron platter) using a stylus force gauge that mimics an LP at playing height. No issues with my MC cartridges - SPU, various DL103 models, Supex SD900IV, GAS/Coral MC777, FR1 MKII, etc.
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