Lens Filter Ring Vise

I recently fixed two lenses from my collection which had dented filter rings using this $36 tool from Micro-Tools.

The tool didn't come with instructions but using it is pretty straightforward. As a precaution, I covered the front element with cardboard. First, I positioned the moving jaw of the tool on the dent and aligned the threads from the jaws of the tool to mate with the threads of the filter ring. Then I gently spread out the jaws of the tool to press out the dent. I cannot over emphasize going slowly but surely!

Dent was between 10 and 11 o'clock
impossible to fit a hood or filter

After the procedure, a 46mm
screw-in lens hood fits with
minimal fuss

Dent was between 3 and 4 o'clock

Not perfect but better than it was

The tool has paid for itself ;)

Canon P DIY/CLA

After developing my negatives from our Tokyo trip, I noticed a thin band of overexposure on a few frames I shot over 1/125, as seen in the two pictures above. Eventually, I also lost speeds below 1/60. These were indications that the curtain drum and rollers where dirty, dry or both.

So I downloaded and studied the service manual. This manual is just a reverse engineering illustration of how the camera was built. There are no instructions on how to service the camera.

Even if I've had previous experience restoring a Leica II and a few Feds and Zorkis, I ruled out dismantling the shutter mechanism on this more complex camera. I didn't even consider adjusting the shutter tension. My main objective was to gain access to the curtain drum and rollers which were blocked by light baffles so I could flush them with Naptha and then re-lubricate. After this procedure, 1/125-1/1000  looked much better on the CRT screen shutter test. I loaded a test roll.

Test shots after DIY/CLA

@ 1/1000

@ 1/500

@ 1/250

@ 1/15

@ 1/500

@ 1/1000

Rollei 35 repair

I found this on the internet reasonably priced to be worth a gamble. It had a couple of dents but no serious signs of abuse. I've been hankering for this camera as a college kid in the early 80s. Instead, I chose a Pentax K1000 SLR which I could upgrade with a zoom lens ;)

This particular sample was made in Singapore in the early 70s. Not the more collectible '66-'70 or post '81 manufactured in Germany.

When it arrived, the 40mm f3.5 Tessar lens was clean and clear but shutter speeds below 1/30 functioned like B and the lens retraction mechanism was erratic. So I consulted my friend, Google.

This excellent time lapse video shows the top cover disassembly in detail.

1. Green arrow - dried up lubricant in the slow escapement gear train causes all slow speeds to function like B. A few drops of lighter fluid in this area should loosen dried lubricant. Cycle through the slow speeds. You should start hearing gears whirring. Keep cycling the slow speeds until the fluid is dry and then add a tiny drop (or two) of gun oil.

2. Yellow arrow - the circular brass plunger actuates the lens retraction latch. Make sure this is properly inserted to the latch upon reassembly. Note: The lens will retract ONLY IF the shutter is cocked.

3. I did not bother to check the light-meter since it requires an obsolete PX625 mercury battery. Anyway I have an iPhone app and Sunny 16.

Rollei 35 + Prazisa RF

When this was introduced in Photokina '66, it was the smallest full frame camera in the world. Due to its diminutive size the controls defy common logic. So it's best to consult the manual before use.

Test shots

Kodak TX400

Kodak TX400

Kodak TX400

More pics

Frankenstein Isolettes

Agfa Isolette II Apotar 85mm f4.5
Bad bellows

+

Agfa Jsolette Solinar 85mm f4.5 Compur Rapid
Agfa Isolette I Agnar 85mm f4.5 Vario
Both have bad bellows

-

Agfa Jsolette
Agnar 85mm f.4.5

=

Agfa Isolette II Solinar 85mm f4.5
Agfa Isolette I Apotar 85mm f4.5

Solinar and Apotar pics

Leica II restoration

[From the Archives, ca. 2005]

Leica II ca. '32 after restoration

As you can see below this camera was in a very sad state lacking the vulcanite cover when I acquired it. The shutter worked only because it was oozing with a WD40 type lubricant mixed with a lot of grime and dirt. Initially I was stumped by the lack of a film take up spindle and spool. Fortunately a short spindle from a Fed 2 bolts on in tandem with a Zorki film spool. 

before restoration

For details of the procedure on how to completely dismantle a Leica II or clone please go to Jay's site or this concise but EZ to follow technical illustration by Rick Oleson.

partial disassembly of a Leica II

Before disassembly the lens flange to film plane distance [28.8mm] was measured using a caliper just to make sure it has not been tampered. Once this is determined, take note of the location of the shims so that the register will be exactly at the same specification upon reassembly. The shims on a Leica are mostly metal with a small piece here and there of vellum like thin paper for fine tuning. I never encountered metal shims on an FSU clone, just paper.

I set the body aside and traced a paper pattern to use as a template for a new cover using Micro Tools #4040 leatherette. The body was cleaned with ultra fine sandpaper moistened with lighter fluid to insure proper adhesion.

Dirty winding gear set, ready for lighter fluid immersion and blasts of air, Fed short replacement spindle standing by for trial. A Zorki spindle is also a bolt on option.

I immersed all the gears in lighter fluid followed by generous bursts of compressed air. Once they were clean I sparingly greased the gear set with Castrol GTX to insure smooth winding.

The shutter curtains looked light tight and only needed cleaning. Making sure the curtain and ribbon attachments do not get contaiminated with oil, I carefully lubricated the rollers and curtain drum spindle using a syringe loaded with watchmaker's oil. After all these steps were accomplished I tensioned the curtains and installed it back to the top super structure.

shutter crate and top plate ready for reassembly

This is the most difficult step in the reassembly of the shutter in any Leica derived focal plane shutter system.

Mating the coupling pin [above - 1] to the curtain drum hole [2 - below] as well as shooting the roller pins [1 - below] to the corresponding holes [2- above] of the top superstructure.

Aside from that, the curtain drum gear needs to couple with the release gear [3] underneath in the wound position at the same time the laths need to be overlapped [4] approximately 180 degrees opposite the drum hole or else the shutter will not work properly. This picture approximates the proper orientation and the shutter worked. Of course it is assumed that the curtains were properly installed.

All of these have to be done in one shot and requires practice, time and a lot of patience!

Before inserting the shutter crate and top assembly to the body I did the TV shutter test to make sure that the speeds are pretty accurate. Usually if the 1/500 looks good all the other speeds will fall into place. I also use an M3 as sound and visual reference.

Although the RF patch was usable it was not bright enough under most lighting conditions so the beam splitter mirror was replaced and the RF and VF cleaned.

After complete reassembly the horizontal and vertical RF alignment was calibrated.

Please note that I do not endorse repainting or even retouching a black enamel Leica II. Brassing adds character and mystique to the camera which is a testament to the history of pictures it has taken. Even the finest repaint job will not achieve record breaking prices at Christie's.

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Here are some details that show the Barnack heritage of FSU clones

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under the RF cover

Fed 1d - soldered eyepiece tunnels

Zorki 1d - eyepiece tunnels removable secured in place by RF cover back screw

Leica II - eyepiece tunnels threaded or secured by screws

Leica II shutter crate is made out of sheet metal [early Feds are similar] more fragile and can easily bend when detached but once assembled it is a rigid structure

Zorki 1d die cast shutter crate

Zorki 1d shutter body

The Fed and Zorki are undoubtedly reverse engineered versions of the Leica II without the close tolerance precision of Teutonic engineering. It is amazing how the Soviets kept the same basic Barnack design in production with touches of their ingenuity sprinkled almost contemporaneously in the early 1930s until the early 1990s, 30 years after Leica stopped LTM production.

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Leica II + Summar 50/2 lens test shots 

Agfa APX100 @ EI200 souped in Diafine

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Beam splitter mirror replacement in Barnacks and clones

[From the Archives, ca. 2005]

Replacing beam splitter mirrors on Barnacks and clones

is relatively easy....

Leica II beam splitter mirror

Tools

Compressed air, lens cleaner [or windex], spanner wrench, jeweller's screwdriver [1.4mm and 2.5mm], ring wrench [micro-tools 50D] sharpening stone, glass cutter, tweezers, air blower, lens tissues, cotton swabs and needle nose pliers. A digital camera may come in handy too.

To the left is a mirror type beam splitter from Edmund Scientific catalog no. 3043359 with 50/50 reflectivity/transmission. This size is good enough to service a number of Barnacks and clones. To the right are two corroded samples of 8 mm x 10 mm beam splitters taken out a Leica II and Fed 1d. The one at the bottom is a replacement I carved out from the larger mirror. I used a cheap glass cutter from Home Depot and the cuts where not clean so I had to shave it down to size with a sharpening stone with flowing water in the kitchen. I would welcome glass cutting tips from people who have experience working with glass.

To remove the rangefinder cover or top plate set the shutter speed dial to Z [or B] or any speed to gain convenient access to the set screw. It may be wise to write it down for reference in reassembly. If the dial only has one set screw chances are it is threaded [Leica, Feds and earlier Zorkis]. Loosen the set screw and turn the dial counter clockwise for removal. On later Zorkis like a 1d the dial is not threaded and will come off once the the two set screws are loosened.

The next step is to remove the three screws securing the accessory shoe and lift it off.

Then remove the screw covering the infinity adjustment [right beside the VF bezel].

Using the ring wrench from micro tools, remove the bezel around the optical wedge and also the RF window. Then using a spanner wrench or needle nose pliers, carefully turn the optical wedge counter clockwise to remove it.

Turn the camera around and remove the screw in between the RF and VF eyepieces and using the ring wrench remove the eyepieces. Carefully remove the RF cover making sure it does not scratch against the rewind knob.

If you encounter difficulty in removing the bezels, optical wedge and RF/VF eyepieces try dropping tiny amounts of thin oil [watch maker's or Radio Shack 64-2301] or even lighter fluid and let it sit for a couple of hours.

Two links with better illustrations on how to dismantle a Barnack clone:

• Jay Javier
• Rick Oleson

Zorki 1d with the RF cover off. The eyepiece tunnels on this late Zorki is one piece and detachable, soldered on most Feds and threaded in Leicas. For proper reassembly take note of the difference between RF and VF eyepieces since they have similar threads, the RF is 1:1 and you can "see through it", while the VF is convex and will be blurred.

Pry off the cover on the side of the beam splitter mirror with a small screw driver.

You will find a "leaf spring" securing the beam splitter mirror wedge. Pry this off very carefully with tweezers and/or a screwdriver because it can fly off.

Front

Now is a good time to clean and dust away dirt from the RF/VF housing using lens tissues and cotton swabs moistened with lens cleaner or windex. Use compressed air to accelerate drying.

You will also notice in this picture that there is a single screw cover directly above the infinity adjustment worm screw. If you encounter difficulty in turning the infinity adjust, remove the cover and loosen the set screw inside for the worm screw to turn freely. Many infinity screw heads have been stripped due to tight adjustment.

Back

The wedge came out fully in this Fed 1d however on other models, it may not be possible for the wedge to slide out completely if the tip of the screw that holds the RF housing is in the way. In this case you have to carefully shake out or maneuver the wedge with tweezers to slide out or install the beam splitter mirror.

In this picture I just inserted a new mirror and is ready for reassembly. Take note of the assembly sequence - wedge, leaf spring and cover.

Reassembly is done in reverse order.

Before you use the camera you need to recalibrate the vertical and horizontal RF adjustment, if you need information on this procedure go to Jay's Fed/Zorki survival site.

If contrast between moving and stationary image is an issue you can try cutting a small piece out of an enlarger contrast filter just big enough to be wedged in the RF tunnel when the RF eyepiece is screwed back on.

Leica IIIc and IIIf

Good luck and good light!